MILLENIUM FLOORING because we do it right

Wood flooring finishes come in a variety of types, each offering its own set of advantages and aesthetic appeal. Oil-based finishes are known for their warm amber tone and excellent durability. They create a strong, moisture-resistant layer that holds up well over time. While these finishes take longer to dry between coats, they typically require fewer reapplications compared to water-based options.

At Millennium Flooring, we use premium products from trusted brands . Whether you prefer a high-gloss shine, a soft satin glow, a subtle semi-gloss, or a modern matte look, we offer a full range of sheen levels to match your style.

Interested in exploring more? Give us a call.

Water-based finishes are an excellent choice for homeowners and professionals seeking a clear, natural look with fast-drying convenience. These finishes preserve the wood’s original color—ideal for lighter species like maple—and won’t yellow over time like oil-based alternatives.

At Millennium Flooring, we use top-tier waterborne finishes from trusted brands such as Loba, Berger-Seidle, Bona, and Pallmann. These finishes dry quickly, allowing multiple coats in a single day—perfect for tight timelines without compromising on quality or durability.

Water-based polyurethane finishes are known for their low odor, low VOC emissions, and easy water cleanup, making them a go-to option for families and eco-conscious clients.

For areas with heavy foot traffic, we offer high-traffic water-based finishes specially formulated to deliver maximum durability and resistance to wear, making them ideal for busy homes, offices, and commercial spaces.

Choose from a wide range of sheen options—matte, satin, semi-gloss, or gloss—to perfectly match your aesthetic.

• Sweep or dust mop with a soft-bristle broom or microfiber mop to remove dust, hair, and debris.
• Vacuum with a hard floor setting or brush attachment to get into corners and between boards.
  Note: Avoid vacuums with a beater bar that can scratch.

• Use warm water or a hardwood-safe floor cleaner (like Bona, Method Wood Floor Cleaner, or a homemade mix).
• Lightly mist the cleaner on the floor or on a microfiber mop — never pour liquid directly on the floor.
• Mop in the direction of the wood grain.
• Avoid excessive moisture, which can damage the wood or finish.

• Steam mops — they can force moisture into the wood and cause warping.
• Abrasive scrubbers or cleaners with ammonia, bleach, or harsh chemicals.
• Wax or oil-based products unless your floor is specifically finished with oil/wax.

• Maintain indoor humidity between 35%–55% and temperatures from 60°F to 80°F, as recommended by the NWFA.
• Keep your pets’ nails trimmed to prevent surface damage.
• Place entry mats at all doorways to trap dirt and moisture.
• Use protective pads under all furniture to avoid scratches.

• WPC – Wood Plastic Composite: Made of wood fiber and plastic. Softer and more comfortable underfoot.
• SPC – Stone Plastic Composite: Made of limestone and plastic. Rigid, durable, and waterproof.
• VPC – Vinyl Plastic Composite: Similar to WPC but with more vinyl. Flexible, budget-friendly, but less durable.

• For Home Use (comfort, warmth) → Choose WPC
• For High-Traffic or Commercial Use → Choose SPC
• For Budget Projects → Choose VPC

All three are water-resistant, but SPC is best in wet environments (bathrooms, kitchens, basements).

• All types are DIY-friendly with click-lock systems.
• SPC is heavier and more rigid, may need stronger tools to cut.

• WPC feels softer and quieter.
• SPC is harder underfoot and may sound louder.
• VPC is in between.

• Fluctuations in temperature and humidity
  Wood is a living material. It expands and contracts with changes in climate. This can create gaps or pressure between floorboards, causing creaks.
• Loose fasteners
  Over time, parquet planks may loosen, especially if nailed or stapled to the subfloor. Even minor movement can cause noise.
• Uneven or sagging subfloor
  If the screed or plywood underneath has deformed, the boards lose proper support and may bend, rubbing against each other.
• Poor installation
  Mistakes during installation — like small expansion gaps or weak adhesion — often lead to creaking, even years after the floor is laid.

1. Identify the source of the sound
Walk around the room to find the noisy spot. Mark it with chalk or tape. Repairs are usually local.

2. Inject glue beneath the plank
If a board has lifted slightly, drill a small hole (2–3 mm) and inject parquet repair glue. Once dry, press it down with a weight.

3. Use anti-squeak compound
There are special dry lubricants that reduce friction between planks. Apply them into the gaps to minimize noise.

4. Secure loose areas with screws
If there are joists or plywood beneath, you can sometimes stop the squeak by carefully screwing the loose board into the subfloor. This may require removing the top layer.

5. Restore humidity balance
If dry air is the cause, use a humidifier. The wood will gradually regain moisture and return to its normal shape.

If creaking is combined with significant sagging, lifting boards, or adhesive failure, more extensive repairs or floor replacement may be necessary. However, most problems can be solved locally.

Creaking is not a reason to panic. In over 80% of cases, it can be eliminated without dismantling the floor. The key is careful handling — or better yet, having professionals diagnose and fix the issue properly.